Plus, we provide free store services, fast, same-day options at most locations and more. We have a full assortment of leading name-brand automotive aftermarket parts and products, and our skilled team members can answer your DIY questions. Some alcohol took care of that, but all it did was turn my bright blue spark into an almost white spark.Looking for car parts in Shirley to get the job done yourself and done right? Your local Advance Auto Parts at 1031 Montauk Hwy is ready to help vehicle owners like you. Here's my problem now: Timing light works on flashing a light at marks on the engine, right? I can't find them and the manual specifies they only go from 0 degrees to 10 degrees BTDC anyways - How do I set it at 12?ĮDIT: Oh yeah, I took the cap and rotor out of the distributor and cleaned them both, there was some crap on the contacts that didn't look like it belonged there. That plus a disconnected vacuum advance and no accelerator pump would definitely cause a severe lack of power. Still didn't fix my problem, but all the same.įound my lack of power and exhaust leak, cylinder number 4 spark plug wasn't even screwed in all the way. I'm an idiot, firing order is literally cast into the heads. Do you have a shop manual or other reference to tell you the advance specs?Ĭheck with the local parts stores and tool rental places.timing lights are becoming an obsolete tool, unless of course like we do, you have an obsolete car! If not, I can recommend this one:įactory service manual specifies 12 degrees BTDC at idle and vacuum advance can pull it up to between 28 and 32 degrees maximum. Get one with the adjustable advance, that way you can actually check the thing you suspect (timing at various engine speeds) as well as timing at idle. You stated that you do not have a timing light. So assuming that you checked and it's OK, your other suspicion is ignition advance, which is another way of saying ignition timing. Less likely that it would be the cause of no power in third-if sticking it would affect power levels in all gears, and would be less of a factor when the engine was cold. Does it smell gassy when trying to do the hot starts? It was running perfectly well before I touched the distributor.Īs posted already, choke function easy to check visually by removing air cleaner and eyballing what it is doing.Ī sticking or mis-set choke could prevent a hot start if it's actually choking the engine when hot, because it would be causing a way too rich mixture. Everyone keeps coming back to carburetor and fuel but I'm telling you, it's a goose chase. Rebuilding the carburetor solved the fuel problems, and now it's a different problem. It would always cold start perfectly before and now it won't start at all. I know the pump works and I've said several times it's consistent and hasn't had any problems since I fixed it's wiring when I got the car, I don't know why everyone keeps coming back to it.Ĭonsidering the problem only really started when I messed with ignition timing, I'm going to say it's a really good bet that's what's wrong with it. How do I use it? I've only worked on small engines prior to this.Ĥ. I can probably rent one from some auto place. If it was a fuel problem, pouring raw gasoline into the carb would have at least caused it to fire.Ģ. The fuel problem was solved with a carburetor rebuild. Where else can I mount this electric fuel pump where it will have power and will not require drilling holes in things? I'm not going to go back to the mechanical pump, it'd be such an insane amount of work for potentially no change at all other than maybe causing it to crank longer before starting.Ĭlick to expand.Yes, I have spark, at least against the hood latch.ġ. How can I check a plugged return line? I can't exactly take the whole line off the car, it's a decently difficult job since the metal hardline goes from the interior underneath the floor and into the engine before it becomes a very short piece of rubber hose connected to the carb. I think I can justify those in part by pointing out that one of the cylinders was disconnected from the distributor completely and that the vacuum advance was unplugged and open - No plug in the port. These recent problems were nonexistent until I started messing with the distributor - The car ran pretty well on it's own beforehand, albeit a bit rough and it would not warm start. It's not running out of gas, even if I pour good fuel down the throat of the carburetor it will still refuse to start. It's almost certainly NOT a fuel problem.
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